Quy Nhon

A large, prosperous coastal city, Quy Nhon boasts a terrific beach-blessed shoreline and grand boulevards. Its seasides are apparel and tidy, letter-free streets make it the kind of place that affluent Vietnamese couples choose to retire to, spending their final days ocean-gazing and promenade-walking.

Quy Nhon is certainly a good spot to sample some fresh seafood, but for most foreign visitors the city’s attractions are less obvious. However, growing numbers are being drawn to Bai Xep Cove, 12km south of the centre, where a cool little scene has developed around a crop of new guesthouses.

 

Sights:

Municipal beach

The long sweep of Quy Nhon’s beachfront extends from the port in the northeast to the hills in the south. It’s a beautiful stretch of sand and has been given a major facelift in recent years, making it almost as nice as Nha Trang, but with a fraction of the visitors

Towards the northern end, the nicest section is near the Sai Gon Qy Nhon Hotel, where a grove of coconut trees lines the road. At dawn and in the evenings this area is packed with local practising tai chi.

South along the shore, the waterfront opens up to the parklike promenade, punctuated by large hotels. Here the beach gets more beautiful and secluded, away from the bustle of town. At night the bright lights of offshore squid boats give the illusion of a floating village far out the sea.

Thap Doi Cham Towers (8-11 am, 1-6 pm)

This pair of Cham towers sits within the city limits in the pretty park. Steep steps lead up to the temples, which are open to the sky. atypically Cham Architecture has curved pyramidal roofs rather than the usual terracing. The large town (20m tall) retains some of its ornate brickwork and remnants of the granite statuary that once graced its summit. The dismembered torsos of garuda (half-human, half-bird) can be seen at the corner of the roofs. Take Tran Hung  Dao st. west way from the centre and look out for the towers on the right.

Binh Dinh Museum (7-11am, 2-5pm)

A small museum that concentrates on regional history. The entry hall focuses on local communism, including a silk print (by Zuy Nhat, 1959) showing a fat French colonist sitting aloft mandarins, in turn supported by bureaucrats, and cruel bosses, with the struggling masses supporting the whole ensemble;. The room to the left has a small natural history section and some Cham statues, while the rear room has the bulk of the impressive  Cham collection.

The room to the right of the entrance is devoted to the American War, with local relics such as the “Spittoon of Heroic Vietnamese Mother Huynh Thi Bon”.

Quy Hoa Beach and Leper Hospital

Leprosy may not conjure up images of fun in the sun, but this is a lovely spot. As leper hospitals go, this one is highly unusual, a sort of model village near the seafront. There are not so many patients here these days, but the descendants of affected families continue to live here together in a well-kept community.

The hospital grounds are well maintained, complete with numerous busts of distinguished and historically important doctors, both Vietnamese and foreign.

Depending on their abilities, patients work in the rice fields, in fishing, and in repair-oriented businesses. There’s also a workshop here where prosthetic limbs and ably need permission from the director of the institution to visit it.

Just up from the beach, there,s a dirt path to the hillside tomb of Han Mac Tu, a mystical poet who died in 1940.

If travelling by foot or bicycle, continue the road past Queen’s Beach until it descends to the hospital’s entrance gates, about 1,5km south of Quy Nhon.

Long Khanh Pagoda

It’s hard to miss the 17m-high Buddha (built-in 1972) heralding Quy Nhon’s main Pagoda, set back from the road 143 Tran Cao Van st.. The pagoda was founded in 1715 by a Chinese merchant, and the monks who reside here preside over the religious affairs of the city’s active Buddhist community.

Inside, in front of the large copper Thich Ca Buddha (with its multicoloured neon halo) is a drawing of multi-armed and multi-eyed Chuan De ( Goddess of Mercy): the numerous arms and eyes symbolise her ability to touch and see all.

Queen’s Beach

This stony beach at the food of Ganh Rang was once a favourite holiday spot of Queen Nam Phuong. There’s a great cafe and great views back over Quy Nhon. To get here, take An Duong Vuong St. to the far south end of Quy Nhon’s beachfront and continue as the road starts to climb. After it crosses a small bridge, pay the entrance fee. It’s accessible by bicycle or xe om.

 

Activities:

Quynhonkids English Club

This friendly bunch of locals love to meet up with foreigners to chat in English. You’re welcome to join them on tours of the countryside bu motorbike, hillside hikes or for football games and just contribute to fuel costs.

Eating & Drinking:

Quy Nhon is one of the best places in Vietnam to indulge in a seafood session. There’s a (kilometre-long) strip of restaurants on the harbourfront road Xuan Dieu st.

C.ine

A very popular seafood restaurant with gingham tablecloths of views over the bay. Feast on delectable dishes including soft-shell crab, hot sour fish soup and green mango prawn salad.

Lien Thanh restaurant:

This down-to-earth place scores for very fresh, delicious seafood, including huge plates of prawns and marinated or barbecued squid. It’s a very local place and there’s no English-language menu, so pring your phrasebook.

Cafe Xua & Nay

Beachfront cafe based in a traditional Vietnamese wooden house (built in 1832) that serves authentic coffee, teas, snacks, and juices

Getting there & Away:

Air:

Vietnam Airlines

Vietjet Air

Jetstar

Bus:

Quy Nhon Bus station is on the south side of town, with very frequent buses to Quang Ngai, Nha Trang and Pleiku

Train:

The nearest mainline station is Dieu Tri (10 km) west of the city.  Only very slow local trains stop at Quy Nhon train station which is at the end of the spur off the main north-south track.