A popular weekend escape from Ho Chi Minh City, Vung Tau rocks at weekends when beach-starved locals and expats descend in numbers, but it is relatively quiet during the week. The city enjoys a spectacular location on a peninsula, with the ocean on three sides; the light and the sea air make it a refreshing break from sultry Saigon.
Oil is big business here, so the horizon is regularly dotted with oil tankers, and petrodollars dominate the economy, inflating prices considerably.
Vung Tau is a remarkably civilised-looking city of broad boulevards and imposing colonial-era buildings, but a slightly seedy bar scene also flourishes here, accommodating the tastes ( and wallets) of retired Anzac servicemen, Russian expats and oil workers. historically few travellers ever bothered to visit the city, but it makes a good place to start ( or end) an intriguing coastal road trip to Mui ne, and beyond.
Welcome to Rio di Vietnam, where soaring forested peaks rise over a turquoise bay. There’s even a giant Jesus, though few would compare Vung Tau’s beaches to Copacabana.
Two museums should open in the next year or two. A new city museum was nearing completion on the sea front boulevard D Tran Phu when we passed by; a newhome is being sought for the collection of the privately owned Worldwide Arms Museum.
Giant Jesus
(Tuong Dai Chua Kito Vua; parking 2000d; 7.30-11.20am & 1.30-5pm) Atop a small Mountain with his arms outstretched to embrace the South China Sea, this 32m Giant Jesus is one of the biggest in the world-taller than his illustrious Brazillian cousin. It is possible to ascend to the arms for a panoramic view of Vung Tau. Note you cannot enter the actual stature in vest-tops or shorts.
Some 800-odd stairs lead up the mountain, but it is possible to take a shortcut by motorbike up a bumpy mountain road if you can find a local who knows the way. It starts from Hem 202, off D Phan Chu Trinh.
Lighthouse
(parking 2000d; 7 am-5pm) Built by the French, this 1910 lighthouse boasts a spectacular 360-degree view of Vung Tau. From Cau Da Pier on D Ha Long, take a sharp right on the alley north of the Hai Au Hotel, then roll on upp the hill. Although Jesus and the lighthouse look temptingly close, it is not possible to walk or drive directly between them, as there is a military base in the hills here.
White Villa
(Bach Dinh, Villa Blanche; D Tran Phu; admission 15000d; 7am-4pm) The weekend retreat of French governor Paul Doumer ( later French president) this gorgeous, grand colonial-era residence has extensive gardens and an oddly empty interior (besides the odd piece of furniture and some Ming pottery retrieved from shipwrecks off the coast). It sits about 30m above the road, up a winding lane.
French Field Guns
Further along Tran Phu beyond Mulberry Beach, a pretty but rough road winds up the hillside to some old French field guns. There are six of these massive cannons, all with support trenches, demonstrating how strategically important Cap St Jacques was to the colonial authorities as it guarded the waterways to Saigon. Look out for Hem 444 in the fishing village, about 8km from Vung Tau, and turn right on a small track.
Vung Tau is not a major water sports centre, but if the weather gods are smiling, some residents surf and kitesurf.
Vung Tau Paradise Golf Course
The east side of the Vung Tau peninsula, this 27-hole course is quite a challenge, with mature trees lining the fairways and some water hazards.
Surf Station
(8 D Thuy Van; 8am-5.30pm) Based at the Vung Tau Beach Club, Surf Station offers board rental, and kitesurfing and surfing classes. The equipment is good and instructors professional,
Seagull & Dolphin Pools
( D Thuy Ban, Bach Beach) These pools are almost opposite the Imperial Plaza. Both charge 60000d for the day.
Most foreigners prefer to stay on Front Beach where the restaurants and bars are found, while the majority of Vietnamese visitors head for Back Beach.
On weekends and holidays Vung Tau heaves with local tourists, so book ahead.
Son Ha Hotel
(064 385 2356; D Thu Khoa Huan; r US$20) One of the few budget options near Front Beach, this family-run hotel offers a homely welcome. Rooms are in good shape, including satellite TV and a fridge.
Jolie Mod Hotel
(064-362 666; 150 D Ha Long; weekdays/weekends from 1 000 000/1 400 000d) Jutting into the bay, this is something of a local landmark, and has only recently been converted into a hotel. Rooms are very well presented, all with windows directly overlooking the sea( and some with Jacuzzi). Rates are good value and there’s a popular cafe-restaurant downstairs.
Lucy’s Hotel
Just across the road from the ferry terminal, these comfortable rooms are above a popular bar. All have a balcony overlooking the bay, and modern bathrooms. The staff are friendly.
Lan Rung Resort & Spa
One of the few hotels in town with a beachside setting, albeit a rocky one. The rooms are a tad chintzy and include heavy wooden furniture but do have all the facilities you’d expect. There are seafood and Italian restaurants. Service is willing, but expect a few communication issues.
There’s great seafood and lots of international flavours available in Vung Tau.
Ferry Café
Inside the ferry terminal building, this large, open-sided place catches the sea breeze and serves up noodles and meat dishes- try steak cooked in a skillet.
Ganh Hao
Highly impressive seafood restaurant, with tables on terraces by the ocean. It’s always packed with locals, so try to get here early. The menu is extensive, with delicious fish, lobster, crab (great with pepper sauce), squid, prawn and mussels (called ‘’oysters’ on the menu try some backed with cheese- it works). It’s huge, but somehow everything ticks over efficiently.
Bistrot 9
Excellent bistro, perfect for an (all-day) breakfast, crepe, panini or a full-on splurge(don’t neglect the desserts, including great profiteroles). It also sells homemade gourmet chocolates and has the best wine selection in town. Eat on the pavement terrace.
Thanh Phat 2
A large, local seafood place with strip lights and blue plastic chairs on a covered terrace right by the sea. Seafood is expertly prepared, with lobster at 1,250,000 per kilo and sea bass for a quarter of that. It’s 4km north of central Vung Tau.
Cay Bang
A seafood institution with a great location on the water, Cay Bang is set under the shadow of the Virgin Mary and Baby Jesus. At weekends it draws a huge crowd of Vung Tau faithful for the shellfish, hotpots and grilled fish.
Tommy’s 3
The food is mainly western and familiar, with big portions of steaks and burgers, plus local food including tasty noodle dishes. There’s a prime front terrace that draws a mixed crowd of locals, expats and tourists.
David Italian Restaurant
This is an authentic Italian-run restaurant with freshly prepared pasta, and the pizzas are the best in town. Quite expensive but has a nice sea-facing terrace.
Drinking
Vung Tau nightlife is raucous by Vietnamese standards, with lots of hostess bars. However, if you want a quiet beer there are some good options.
Haven
This lounge-ish bar enjoys a great ocean-facing terrace, has reasonably priced drinks and is a top spot for sunset. Located 2km north of the centre on the coast road.
Lucy’s Sports Bar
Almost opposite the ferry terminal, this non-sleazy bar has a busy pool table, a great sea-facing terrace and a sociable vibe. As the name indicates, there’s a viewing diet of sports events -from Test cricket to Aussie Rules football. Also serves pub grub.
Red Parrot
One of the better expat joints in town with a heavy-duty clientele of war veterans, oil workers and working girls. Check out the vintage Vespas.
Information
Consult www.vungtau-city.com for relatively up-to-date information on the city of Vung Tau.
International SOS (064-3858776; www.internationalsos.com; 1 D Le Ngoc Han; 24hr) A well-respected clinic with international standards and international prices.
Main Post Office ( 8 D Hoang Dieu; 7a5.30pm Mon-Sat) Located at the ground level of the Petrovietnam Towers building.
OSC Vietnam Travel (064-3852008; www.oscvietnamtravel.com.ccn; 2 D Le Loi; 7 am-4.30 pm) Offers transport booking and a host of local trips.
Vietcombank (27-29 D Tran Hung Dao;; 7.30 am-3.30 pm) Exchanges cash and offers credit card advances.
Getting There & Away
Bus
Orange air-con Futa Phuong Trang buses (115,000d) leave hourly between 4 am and 6 pm from Pham Nga Lao in the heart of HCMC’s back-packer district to Vung Tau’s bus station (192A D Nam Ky Khoi Nghia); your ticket includes a drop-off in Vung Tau, saving you a taxi.
There are also minibuses from Mien Dong bus station in HCMC (85,000d, frequent) between 5 am and 7 pm to Vung Tau.
The journey time is around 90 minutes.
Boat
It’s more enjoyable to catch a hydrofoil to/from HCMC, though with the opening of a new expressway, services have been reduced. Boat operators to HCMC (weekday/weekend 200,000/250,000, 90 minutes) use the same terminals. The best boats are run by Vina Express (HCMC phone number: 08-38253333, Vung Tau 064-3856530) and Petro Express ( HCMC 08-38210650, Vung Tau 064-3515151). Services leave roughly every 90 minutes until 4.45 pm and there are additional boats at weekends when it’s important to book ahead. In Vung Tau, the boat leaves from Cau Da Pier.
Two ferries connect Con Son island with Vung Tau, with sailings every second day. Boats do not leave when seas are rough (and conditions aboard the boats are pretty rough too). Tickets can be purchased from the office at 1007/36 D 30/4 which read BQL Cang Ben Dam Huyen Con Dao ( bunk bed 270,000d; 7.30-11.30 am & 1.30-4.30 pm Mon-Fri). The ferry departs at 5 pm from Vung Tau port, which lies about 15km west of the city; the journey takes 12 hours.
Getting Around
Vung Tau is easily traversed on two wheels or four. Guesthouses and restaurants can arrange bicycle hire (per day US$2) and motorbike hire (from US$6 per day). Metered taxis (which are everywhere) will likely work out cheaper than trying to negotiate with ruthless Cyclo or xe om drivers. Mai Linh -(064-3565656) is a reliable operator and has plenty of taxis cruising the streets.